If you have not been to Hong Kong, or have not been there in ten years, it is the same thing. Hong Kong is ever changing its buildings, but thankfully keeping its food.
Described as a city on steroids, Hong Kong reinvents itself constantly. The buildings grow higher, with more lights, more lasers, or building features.
The city defines phrenic, as if it is a city living on borrowed time and trying to get the most out of every square inch and minute of the day.
You will get tons of travel advice about Hong Kong – like don’t come here in the summer (which we did, it was fine). Or how to dress (other than for the weather, ignore most of this advice). Or where to stay (there is only one place in my mind, but you will stay where you wish).
For me the city seemed to overwhelm my senses. Unlike Europe, this is not a city you go to for old castles and classic architecture. This is not a city you expect to see history, this is a city where you will be overwhelmed with the architecture that will come to your town next year (if you are lucky).
You could go to shopping malls in the city, but why?
But let’s start at the beginning.
The Airport
You don’t need a visa to stay in Hong Kong, if you will be there for less than 30 days. You just need your passport.
Hong Kong International Airport is the commercial airport serving Hong Kong, built on reclaimed land on the island of Chek Lap Kok. One of 230-260 islands that make up the municipality of Hong Kong. Locals will know the airport as Chek Lap Kok Airport.
It takes about 30 minutes to get to the main part of the city and it costs about ten bucks if you take a shuttle.
If you stay at the Peninsula Hotel, and arrange for it- they will pick you up in their signature Rolls Royce. Of course we did that – it costs about $30 for the ride, which is about what we pay for Uber Black from our house in the states to the airport.
Most of the time arriving from the North America you will arrive to Hong Kong late, and while your inclination is to get to the hotel room, shower and sleep this is the perfect time to have a cocktail.
We arrived in Hong Kong about 9 pm. As soon as we cleared customs (fast, took about ten minutes) and collected our luggage we saw the Peninsula Hotel steward waiting for us. He promptly took our bags and brought us to the curbside where our transportation, a vintage Rolls Royce was waiting for us.
The ride was, needless to say, delicious. A quick shower and out of the travel clothes (I wore a light t-shirt, bluffworks Chinos, and a sweater for the airplane). Time to dress up – we are adults.
The Felix Bar, sits on top (30 stories) of the new addition of The Peninsula Hotel. A place where you are told to dress up, and why not. From here you have a perfect view of Hong Kong Island and the bustling city that believes lights are a show for every night.
There is no food service after midnight at Felix, which was fine. They will still serve snacks. This is one of the few places where you can obtain Beefeaters 24 gin – and why not a martini (gin, dry, straight up with a lemon twist) and toast the city and the upcoming adventure.
They won’t rush you out of the bar, so enjoy the view, the cocktail, and in my case- my wife.
Where to Stay
The Peninsula in Hong is across the water from Hong Kong Island. It’s located on the southern tip of the Kowloon in Tsim Sha Tsui (an important bit of geography to write down, because at some point you want to get back and you will take a cab or see a sign in a ferry or subway for Tsim Sha Tsui).
The Peninsula was founded by two brothers,Ellis and Elly Kadoorie, and opened in 1928. The Peninsula Hotel is the flagship hotel for the Peninsula chain. Having stayed in Peninsula hotels in Beijing, Chicago, and Beverly Hills, it was not difficult to make this decision. But perhaps the main interest was when I was at their hotel in Beijing they had film of the Hong Kong flagship with charter from Alaska Airlines, that came here in the 1950’s. What many don’t know is that Alaska Airlines was once the largest charter airline in the world, carrying food and supplies during the Berlin Airlift as well as evacuating 49,000 Yemenite Jews to Israel.
It was with points from Alaska Airlines that we came to Hong Kong – somehow this was the perfect place to stay.
Built when Hong Kong was owned by the British Empire, The Peninsula is where royalty would stay. The most difficult time in the hotel’s history is when it was occupied by Japan in World War 2 and served as the headquarters for the Imperial Army. As such it was fired upon by American in aircraft because they knew the Imperial Army kept their officers and important staff here. Even under the rule of Japan the hotel kept up its reputation.
There are plenty of other places to stay in Hong Kong. From Air BNB to other luxury hotels. One can experience the greatness of Hong Kong at any hotel. It is where you sleep – find a good bed and you will be fine.
But if you stay elsewhere – make a reservation for high tea at The Peninsula – you won’t need dinner and you will be quite well taken care of.
How To Dress
Having read 20 articles for dressing in the month of June in Hong Kong, think this: it is like Los Angeles in the summer. Dress comfortably and casually for the hot and humid weather, and perhaps bring one nice outfit for some of the amazing dinners. Walking around the city -comfortable shoes, shorts, and a t-shirt will be perfect.
No I won’t link to travel shoes and shirts and pants. You probably have everything you need in your closet. But, for the record: Bluffworks.com have the best t-shirts and chinos and Allbird shoes are amazing. Linen shirts are great for the hot and humid climate and the hotel will supply you with an umbrella if you need it. I brought a rain jacket and never used it (too damn hot).
I packed everything in my Tortuga backpack with packing cubes and happily used the laundry facilities as I do on every trip.
Getting Around Hong Kong
Hong Kong is roughly divided into three areas: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and the New Territories. Most of what you want to see is on Hong Kong Island or in Kowloon. The advantage of staying in Kowloon is it is easy to get to the island on one of the vessels, and you have an incredible view of the city day and night.
Public transportation is easy, and the cabs are regulated – but they cheat about your fare and will somehow make you pay more than you should. Don’t tip the cabbies, no need. No ride sharing in Hong Kong.
